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Last night, Saul Nash showcased Dresscodes, his AW24 collection inspired by the the energy and rituals of London garage clubs. Famously, these clubs often had strict dress codes – “no hoods/no hats/no trainers” – so as a nod to that, the London designer presented a collection of pieces to get you into the club – and crucially to wear everyday.
“Growing up, I witnessed the garage scene through the eyes of my older brother, who was an MC. It set the blueprint for how I see clothing today. The question was, how do you take sportswear and dress it up to get in? That was the starting point for this collection”, Nash said of Dresscodes.
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Soft merino knit jackets juxtaposed with recycled nylon zip-ups, whilst utility jackets and lightweight denim pieces completed the technical-heavy collection. Bags – made in collaboration with sustainable fashion brand ARCS – featured for the first time, with crossbody bags echoing the collection’s utility jacket, and holster bags fastened with magnets.
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The show coincided with 30 years of UK Garage, and featured a set and catwalk that harked back to the halcyon days of 4×4 and 2-step. MC Bushkin from Heartless Crew and photographer Ewen Spencer both walked the runway to a soundtrack mixed by CKTRL and featuring Envy mic duties – RJ East, Nash’s older brother and the one who first introduced the designer to the garage scene.
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This season Saul Nash is part of the Smiley® Future Positive Creators Fund, a monetary fund and mentorship support scheme designed to aid the sustainability endeavours of game-changing designers. This partnership featured in Dresscodes with close-up smileys printed on the front of a zip-up shell jacket – but only forming when the arms are held against the body.
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The Saul Nash AW24 collection also saw a collaboration with American footwear brand Sebago, as two exclusive new styles were unveiled: the Classic Dan Club Loafer and the Classic Dan Wrapped Hybrid Loafer. Each was reimagined with a contrasting Vibram sole for a sporty, avant-garde aesthetic which fuses both brands’ design DNA.